Echoing threads is Otis Allure’s latest collection. Announced and released recently, the collection pays homage to the woven origins of the Nigerian fabric, Aso-oke. At the helm of this artistic endeavour is Tejumola Temitope Fatigun, a designer whose technical prowess lies in garment construction and illustration.
The most defining feature of Echoing threads is undoubtedly the basket-shaped skirts of the short gowns. They stand as structured forms – bold, assertive, and undeniably eye-catching. The weight of the Aso-oke fabric itself provides a certain degree of stability. This makes the shape of the gown require an internal framework to balance out the rigidity of the fabric. The skirt-and-blouse ensembles introduce an alternative interplay of proportion. The flared blouses, also adorned with embroidered detailing at the chest, counter the structured skirts with a sense of weightless motion. The standout piece, however, is the slim-fit skirt that fuses aso-oke fabric with net lace. Here, the fabric is abruptly cropped at mid-thigh, allowing the lace to cascade below the knee. This deliberate interruption of fabric invites discourse on transparency and coverage.
The placement of the embroidery intends to draw the eye upward, balancing the volume-heavy bottom halves. However, embroidery on a textured fabric like aso-oke must be executed with meticulous precision – both in stitch quality and backing technique. The lack of embroidery variation throughout the collection is a missed opportunity. The embroidery design could have been used to emphasize contours and introduce unexpected contrasts. The embroidered designs feel more like an accent than an integral part of the garment’s construction.
While the pieces come across as seamless blends of tradition and modernity, noteworthy construction contributions such as flat-felled seams for durability and overlocked edges for clean execution further solidify Otis Allure’s commitment to quality. Labels, trims, and closures follow suit. The use of concealed fastenings and smooth lining also prevent bulkiness. Topstitching could also have been used more as a design feature to emphasize the volume in the skirts of the gowns. The basket gowns will likely attract editorial interest, fashion-forward clientele, and cultural enthusiasts who embrace bold designs. The fitted skirts and flared blouses, on the other hand, are more adaptable. The fusion skirt, in particular, has the potential to move beyond niche fashion circles and into more mainstream formalwear.
Echoing threads asserts Otis Allure’s commitment to structural fashion and makes an attempt to push the brand forward. Tejumola Temitope Fatigun continues to refine her identity in fashion, demonstrating an unwavering grip on construction, fit, and textile synergy. While certain elements might benefit from a touch more dynamism, the collection remains a testament to her mastery of structured fluidity.
